Mysore Silk, a distinguished and luxurious fabric, holds an esteemed position in India’s rich textile heritage. Created under the patronage of the Maharaja of Mysore, this silk has flourished through centuries, symbolising regality, craftsmanship, and exclusivity. It remains a preferred choice among both elderly connoisseurs and younger fashion enthusiasts. The journey of Mysore Silk began in the 18th century, tracing its origins to the visionary ruler Tippu Sultan, and continues to thrive today as a hallmark of elegance and tradition.

Historical Evolution
The roots of Mysore Silk can be traced back to the 18th century when Tippu Sultan, famously known as the ‘Tiger of Mysore’, initiated sericulture by establishing a silk-rearing unit in Channapatna. He introduced multivoltine silkworm rearing, which later became synonymous with Mysore’s silk heritage. Following his demise in 1799, the silk industry faced challenges until its revival in 1866, when an Italian entrepreneur, Signor de Vecchi, set up a silk filature unit in Kengeri. A significant milestone in Mysore Silk’s history was the establishment of the Tata Silk Farm in Basavanagudi in 1896, which provided training in sericulture and mulberry cultivation. However, the true renaissance of Mysore Silk occurred in 1912 under the rule of Nalvadi Krishnaraja Wadiyar, the Maharaja of Mysore, who established the Mysore Silk Weaving Factory to craft premium silk fabrics for the royal family and armed forces. Over time, Mysore, Ramanagara, and Bengaluru emerged as major silk production centres, supplying high-quality silk yarn to the entire nation.

In 1980, the Karnataka Silk Industries Corporation Limited (KSIC) inherited the Mysore Silk Weaving Factory, preserving its royal legacy. Today, KSIC ensures the authenticity of Mysore Silk through a Geographical Indication (GI -11) certification, reinforcing its position as one of India’s most treasured textiles.

Geography and Market Reach
Mysore Silk production is deeply rooted in the geography of Karnataka, particularly in Mysore, Ramanagara, and Bengaluru. Ramanagara, often referred to as Asia’s largest silk market, plays a crucial role in the supply chain, providing high-quality raw materials for Mysore Silk sarees. The region’s climate and soil conditions are highly favourable for mulberry cultivation, which is essential for sericulture. The market for Mysore Silk is diverse, catering to traditional and contemporary demands. The sarees are widely sought after in India and internationally, with prices ranging between ₹12,000 to ₹2.65 lakh. Mysore Silk has found its place in luxury boutiques, designer collections, and wedding trousseaus, appealing to consumers who value heritage and quality. The use of pure silk yarn with 2,200 twists per metre gives Mysore Silk its signature crepe texture, further enhancing its uniqueness.

Artisan Segment and Expertise
Mysore Silk owes its finesse to skilled artisans who have inherited the craft through generations. These weavers, considered among India’s oldest silk artisans, meticulously craft sarees with precision. The process involves using 26/28 denier untwisted raw silk yarn for the warp and two-ply twisted yarn for the weft. The exquisite zari used in Mysore Silk sarees comprises 65 per cent pure silver and 0.65 per cent gold, ensuring unparalleled brilliance and longevity.

The artisans follow a rigorous production process, from rearing silkworms to dyeing silk in natural colours and weaving intricate designs. Their expertise ensures that every Mysore Silk saree is a masterpiece, reflecting the legacy and grandeur of Karnataka’s silk industry.

Product Uniqueness and Exclusivity
Mysore Silk is renowned for its exceptional quality and distinctive features:

  • High-Twist Yarn: The sarees are woven with yarns that have 2,200 twists per metre, creating a unique crepe texture.
  • Zari Composition: The zari, made of 65 per cent silver and 0.65 per cent gold, retains its lustre for years.
  • Authenticity Markers: Every saree is stamped with a unique identification number and hologram, ensuring its purity and exclusivity.
  • ISO Standards and GI Certification: Mysore Silk meets international quality standards and is protected by GI -11 certification (2017), reinforcing its authenticity.

Despite being predominantly machine-woven, Mysore Silk retains the charm of traditional handloom weaving, making it a prized possession for saree enthusiasts and collectors worldwide.

Weaving Technique
The production of Mysore silk begins with sourcing silk cocoons from the Ramanagara district of Karnataka, which are then transported to the raw silk production unit in Tirumakudalu Narasipura. The cocoons are soaked and boiled to facilitate the extraction of silk threads, which are twisted multiple times to achieve a crepe-like texture. These threads are rolled and sent to the main weaving factory in Mysore, where artisans use dobby or jacquard looms pre-equipped with patterns to weave the sarees. Once woven, the fabric undergoes degumming, where over 200 sarees are soaked in a boiling solution of soap chips and soda ash to soften the texture. The sarees are then submerged in warm water to remove excess solution before proceeding to hydro extraction and dyeing. The winch machine dyes the sarees by rotating them inside a hot water tank connected to a separate colour tank, ensuring even application of dyes. If any dyeing imperfections occur, the sarees are bleached and re-dyed before being washed and transferred to the final finishing steps. The half-dry sarees are steam ironed using a clip stentering machine, laid flat on a moving horizontal axis, and gathered into rolls for cutting. Each saree is manually cut to the required length and assigned a unique identification code by KSIC to prevent duplication. Finally, the sarees undergo quality checks, stain removal, thread trimming, and packaging in water-resistant or brown paper before being sorted and dispatched to showrooms across the state.

Challenges and Global Scope
While Mysore Silk enjoys a prestigious reputation, it faces several challenges, including:

  • Competition from Synthetic Fabrics: The rise of synthetic alternatives has affected the demand for pure silk sarees.
  • High Production Costs: The cost of raw materials and zari contributes to the high price of Mysore Silk, limiting its affordability.
  • Limited Availability: Mysore Silk is exclusively sold through KSIC outlets, making it less accessible to a broader audience.

Despite these challenges, Mysore Silk continues to captivate global markets. The influence of celebrities and fashion designers has propelled its popularity, as seen at the 75th Cannes Film Festival, where actress Deepika Padukone donned a Mysore Silk ensemble. International consumers are increasingly recognising Mysore Silk as a luxury textile, further strengthening its global appeal.