Structural behavior of fabric made from twist less weft yarn

ABSTRACT

Purpose - The purpose of this research is to investigate an alternative approach that can develop and assess the fabric made from twist less weft yarn.

Design/methodology/approach- The fabric was produced with twist less yarn. The cotton yarn was produced without twist by means of doubling with PVA filament in the opposite direction. This process was done by TFO (Two for One Twister) machine. The doubled yarn with PVA has sufficientstrength required for weaving. Thisyarn has been used as weft in fabric to be formed. This soft twist weft yarnfabric is compared with standard sample and various properties are observed.The yarn with twist is considered as standard sample.

Findings The structure of fibrous assemblies in weft has great impacton the comfort related properties.

Originality/value Development of soft and smooth effect on the surface ofthe fabric with PVA winded weft. Soft twist weft yarn fabric is compared withstandard sample and various properties are observed.

Paper type: Research paper

Keywords: Twist-less Core, Fibrous assembly, Hollow

Introduction

Soft twist fabrics are used in various fields because oftheir water absorption and wicking properties. The marketing conditions which prevail in todays world market oblige manufacturers to constantly raise the level of usabilityof there products. Generally fabrics are made from twisted yarns. In this casemoisture absorbency of the material is to a limited extent. To improve the moisture absorbency of the fabric we may use twist less yarns. The smoothness will beimproved if the moisture absorbency is more in twist less yarn. Then feel ofthe fabric will be soft. Therefore this type of fabric is used in medicalpurpose. To manufacture baby wears. It can be also used for medical purposesbecause of their soft feel. It can be also used as baby wears so that we can prevent them from diseases. It improves the fabric absorption, wetting and wicking properties.

Method

Fiber selection

The cotton weft yarn is produced by open end spinningmethod. Yarn count is in the range of 20s Ne. Normally the fiber span lengthfor this count is short staple length. But here, the fiber length is somewhathigher than the normal selection. Because the piles have no twist after processing, so it has to bind between two picks of weft yarn. In this regard the higher fiberlength survives more gripping compare to short staple length. The fiber lengthand count of yarn are given below:

The fiber selection for 20^s Ne is accordinglysame as 20s Ne mixing. So the yarn properties are comparatively increased, theincreased properties were yarn strength, surface uniformity, better fibercohesion and quality is better than that of normal mixing yarn. And, thishigher fiber length is used for better gripping between two weft threads. Sothe fiber worn out from the surface of the fabric is to be control.

Twist less Yarn Manufacturing

Doubling with Polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) in TFO:

After completion of yarn manufacturing, the cotton yarn was doubled with polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) multifilament in opposite direction. The Polyvinyl alcohol is a water-soluble high-molecular compound, not soluble in ordinary organic solvents. It is a white solid in the form of flakes, with excellent tensile stress, mould ability, impact strength, wear resistance and excellent electrical insulation. A two-for-one twister (TFO) is used for doubling two or more no of yarns with uniform twist.

Technical details about twist less yarn:

• Cotton yarn count 20^s
• PVA filament 60^s (88denier)
• Cotton yarn twist s twist
• Cotton yarn TPI 14

During doubling in TFO

• TPI 12 at z twist
• PVA wrapped around cotton
• Cotton getting reverse direction twist

Then finally the cotton yarn had got twist less and PVA filament wrapped around the cotton yarn.

Fabric specification of fabric made with twist less yarn:

Warp count - 20^s Ne cotton

Weft count - 20^s Ne cotton (twist less)

Weave - 2/2 plain weave

Picks per inch - 41 PPI

Ends per inch - 60 EPI

PROCESSING

Dissolving:

The fabric after weaving is dissolved into hot water at boiling temperature at 100^o c, the process carried out for 30 min. After dissolved the PVA from the fabric it should be rinsed well with soup solution because, the dissolved PVA substances are placed on the surface of the fabric.

Results and Discussions

For the measuring of the physical and mechanical properties of fabrics, five specimens were tested with materials made from twisted yarn and the mean values of each parameter were obtained. The aim of the investigation was to find how the level of usability features like:

1. Wet ability
2. Wicking property
3. Abrasion resistance
4. Pilling resistance
5. Tensile strength

Table No: 1. Wet ability behavior

Figure: 1. Wet ability behavior

Graph value shows soft twist sample takes very less time when compare to standard sample.

Table No: 2. Fabric wicking property

Figure: 2. Fabric wicking property

The wicking property is compared with standard fabric the soft twist fabric wicking property is high.

Table No: 3. Abrasion test

Figure: 3. Abrasion test

The abrasion resistance test is compared with standard fabric the soft twist yarn fabric more weight loss.

Table No: 4. Pilling Test

Figure: 4. Pilling Test

The Pilling performance is compared with standard fabric the soft twist yarn is more piles.

Table No: 5. Tensile strength

Table No: 6. Tensile strength

Figure: 6. Tensile strength (weft way)

The Tensile strength is compared with standard fabric the soft twist fabric strength is low.

Conclusion

The assessment of fabric characteristics made from twist less weft yarn.

• Wicking properties and wet ability properties are higher than the standard fabric. That mean twist less sample has more water absorbency
• Abrasion resistance pilling characteristics and tensile strength is poor when compared with standard sample.

References:

1. G.F.Ruppenicker et. al Cotton fabrics produced with Twist less wrap spun yarns, TRJ 1997.
2. G.F.Ruppenicker et. al Properties of fabric woven from twist less cotton yarns produced by wrap spinning, TRJ 1990
3. Erik Kissa Wetting and Wicking, TRJ 1996
4. Peter R. Lord et al, The Behavior of Twist less and Low-Twist staple yarns in a Plain weave fabric, TRJ 1981
5. Tek-Ja A New Approach to Twist less yarns TRJ 1955
6. J. Clinton Caban A new spinning process for worsted yarns, TRJ 1979.
7. Peter R. Lord et al, Twist less yarns and Woven fabrics, TRJ 1973.
8. Harold L.Salaun et. al, An improved SRRC no twist yarn system TRJ 1983.
9. www.swicofil.com
10. www.dzhj.com/twistless/fabric

About the Authors:

The authors are Lecturers for Department of Textile Engineering, Bahirdar University, Ethiopia, Africa, Department of Textile Technology, Thrichengodu, TamilNadu & Department of Textile Technology, Jaya Engineering College, TamilNadu, respectively.

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