Madhya Pradesh is the centre of numerous time-tested handicrafts and handloom products that are innovative and creative. Whether it is metal Dokra ware, Chanderi fabric from fine silk or sustainable use of paper in papier mache, there is a sea of human creations in this nature-blessed state.
Madhya Pradesh is proud to be the originator of woven wonders like the Chanderi and Maheshwari fabrics made with cotton and silk yarns, carpets woven in Gwalior, Guna, Morena, while printing centres like Bagh and Jawad are famous for vegetable dye and resist block prints. Bhairogarh is known for batik and chemical block prints, Burhanpur for cotton, Bhopal for zari, zardozi and Gotampura for tie- and- dye and block printing.
Apart from the above, major handicrafts created in the state include bamboo and cane work, woodcraft, lacquer ware, floor coverings like carpets, folk painting, jute works, jewellery, stone carving, terracotta and doll making.
These can be categorised based on techniques involved like weaving, printing, braiding, embroidery, or based on regions involved. Here, both classifications are done in tabular forms.
Textile
A textile or cloth is a flexible woven material consisting of a network of natural or artificial fibres often referred to as thread or yarn. Yarn is produced by spinning raw fibres of wool, flax, cotton, or other material to produce long strands. Textiles are formed by weaving, knitting, crocheting, knotting, or pressing fibres together (felt).
The words fabric and cloth are used in textile assembly trades (such as tailoring and dressmaking) as synonyms for textile. However, there are subtle differences in these terms in specialised usage. Textile refers to any material made of interlacing fibres. Fabric refers to any material made through weaving, knitting, spreading, crocheting, or bonding that may be used in production of further goods (like, garments). Cloth may be used synonymously with fabric but often refers to a finished piece of fabric used for a specific purpose (e.g., tablecloth).
Craft
A craft is a pastime or a profession that requires skills and knowledge of skilled work. In a historical sense, particularly as pertinent to the Middle Ages and earlier, the term is usually applied to people occupied in small-scale production of goods, or their maintenance, for example by tinkers. The traditional terms craftsman and craftswoman are nowadays often replaced by artisan and by craftsperson".
Cluster
A cluster is defined as a geographic concentration (a city/town/few adjacent villages and their adjoining areas) of units producing near similar products and facing common opportunities and threats. An artisan cluster is defined as geographically concentrated (mostly in villages/townships) household units producing handicraft/handloom products. In a typical cluster, such producers often belong to a traditional community, producing the long-established products for generations. Indeed, many artisan clusters are centuries old.
Textile Craft Cluster
Any cluster creating craft which includes natural or manmade textile is called textile craft cluster. It includes creation of textile material itself, or its surface embellishment or product development.
Bagh, Bastar, Bilaspur, Bhopal, Gwalior, Indore, Bundelkhand, Gondwana, Ujjain Khajuraho, Malwa, Mandla, Jhabua, Raigarh and Shahdol are main clusters of art and craft in Madhya Pradesh.
History and culture
The state was established by Chandragupta Maurya in 320 B.C. The region gained its present status after being under influences of tribes like Bhil and Gond and the civilisation of Aryans. Some of the tribal groups in Madhya Pradesh are Baigas, Bhilals, Bhils, Gonds, Halba, Kamaras, Kols, Korkens, Murias, Oraons, Sahariya, Panikas, Khaiwas, and Mangetri Pradhans. It came under the influence of Buddhism from Mauryans, while other influences included that of the Guptas, Chandels, Parmaras, Bundelas, and lately, Mughals and British.
This explains the vivid art and culture of Madhya Pradesh. The major languages spoken is Hindi, but with a Bhopali dialect.
The incorporation of the varied tradition of different groups made the culture of the state vivacious and multi-dimensional. The state has specialities in all streams of art and craft. Influence of tribal culture displays the different customs and social activities as well as the rich traditions.
Classification of Textile Craft Clusters of Madhya Pradesh
They can be categorised on the basis of techniques. For instance, weaving, printing, embroidery, braiding, and beading clusters (Table 1) or region it is practiced like, Chanderi, Bagh, Gwalior (Table 2).
Table No.1 Classification of Madhya Pradesh textile clusters on the basis of techniques.
Table No. 2 Classification of Madhya Pradesh textile clusters based on regions.