Z Zegna A/W collection fuses romantic yet masculine style
18 Jan '11
3 min read
Masculinity makes an inventive and stylistic comeback for the Z Zegna Autumn/Winter 2011 collection. In our brand laboratory, the reassuring legacy of classical man is first acknowledged and then successfully overturned by a young romanticism, mixed with technological tricks that are inspired by contemporary visual arts.
The core color palette consists of charcoal grey, military green and camel which are presented in different shades, ranging from light to very dark, with occasional and unexpected accents of petrol. Plenty of carded wool has been used, from the thickly woven mélange yarns for suits and overcoats to the softer, hand-knit sweaters. All share the same, unique trait: they look very heavy, but feel ultra light. Camel, mohair, angora, alpaca and cashmere are the fibers of choice, often mixed to create extremely soft fabrics.
The ever-present virtuoso craftsmanship of the brand skillfully mixes deconstructed and boxy outerwear. Trousers are wide at the hip and slim at the ankle, creating a new male silhouette, striking yet slender. Jackets are short, either three-buttoned or double-breasted, while three-piece suits are composed of two layered jackets and trousers. Squared and protective cuts characterize the ample choice of overcoats and outerwear, alternating high-seamed leather jackets and more hybrid garments, like peacoats made with a remarkable jersey in a heavy 800 grams.
Excellence in fabrics, a signature Zegna trademark, is now enhanced by a laser needle-punching process, exclusively owned by Z Zegna. The technique ensures extreme precision in embroidering and doubling, joining different and unusual materials without a single stitch. Such a design metamorphosis has given birth to digitally patterned fabrics like the Shetland and cashmere double-knit damier, as well as blends of leather and cashmere flannel, hand-knit sweaters with cashmere-on-cashmere felt detailing. As for leather garments, needle punching makes for outstanding results: design and volume are defined only by neoprene padding, which conveys unprecedented lightness and simplicity.
That's how this season's two 'iconic' garments were fashioned: the “Futuristic Jacket” - either in cloth or flannel-lined leather, down padded with neoprene and laser-sealed, with no stitching involved, and favoring Velcro over buttons and zipper closures - and the innovative “Needle Punch Knit.”
Accessories are both manly and essential: bi-color rounded pointy toe shoes in a mix of shiny and opaque leather with a thick technical sole, unlined bags in hand-worked Napa leather, clean-cut belts and cashmere needle-punched leather padded gloves. The object of desire for the season is the “Hyper-Bag” suit and everyday carrier in edge-cut canvas and Napa leather.
“The collection fuses a romantic yet masculine style with a distinctively virtual and digital identity. This unique combination is realized through a innovative evolution in craftsmanship.” Alessandro Sartori: Creative Director – Z Zegna
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