Vigour-Mortis – The winning collection:
Marios Schwab's Spring Summer 2008 collection “Vigour-mortis” takes a literal journey within the body. Enthused by Andreas Vesalius' De Humani Corporis Fabrica, the fabric of the human body becomes the fabric of the collection.
A dress holds complex internal harnesses; straps pull fabric away from, and around the body; fabric is manipulated with the use of wire, simulating veins, twisting and turning to fit – holding a loose silhouette strategically in place in order to reveal the form beneath.
Sections of a jacket are dissected, and rolled away from the body, revealing contrasting layers of print, colour or the skin itself. Strings of pearls, used out of their traditional context, are juxtaposed with everyday chunky plastic zips; acting as symmetrical muscular structures to form a supportive frame around body and garment.
Pre-occupied with the concept of clothes as a personal living space, the collection also explores Giuliana Bruno's "Atlas of Emotion", the excerpt "address to a dress", which discusses habitation, habitus and abito.
These three words come from the same Latin root: abito translating as "dress"; living space and clothes are inevitably intertwined.
Heat reactive fabrics, affected by personal touch and the body's natural warmth, are instantly altered to an inimitable state: each piece becomes unique to the wearer at one particular time, ones contact with the fabric becomes visible.
Support to develop a collection and career:
The Swiss Textiles Award has a total value of 100,000 euros of which 10,000 euros are earmarked for the purchase of Swiss fabrics.
This sum is intended to provide substantial support for the further promotion of the international career of the winner and is not paid out in cash.
In cooperation with the Swiss Textile Federation, Marios Schwab must now decide how he intends to use the prize money, for example for show productions, to find appropriate distribution partners or for public relations. The other five finalists also receive a prize: they can obtain Swiss fabrics with a value of 4000 euros.
Jury panel of the Swiss Textiles Award 2007:
• Robert Burke, Fashion Consultant, Robert Burke Associates, New York
• Christophe Brunnquell, Art Director, Le Figaro, Paris, FR
• Melissa Drier, Fashion Editor, Women's Wear Daily, Berlin/New York, DE
• Daniela Gurtner, Fashion Editor, annabelle, CH
• Akiko Ichikawa, Fashion Editor, Vogue Japan, New York/Tokyo, USA/JP
• Albert Kriemler, Designer-in-Chief, Akris, CH
• Olga Mikhailovskaya, Fashion Editor, Kommersant Newspaper, Moscow, RU
• Renata Molho, Fashion Journalist, Il Sole 24 Ore, Milan, IT
• Matthew Murphy, Buyer, B Store, London, UK
• Susan Sabet, Editor-in-Chief, Pashion Magazine, Cairo/Dubai, EG/UAE
• Robin Schulié, Buyer, Maria Luisa Store, Paris, FR
Event partners of the Stella Fashion Night 2007:
Main sponsor: Globus. Sponsors: swiss+cotton, The Zurich Silk Association. Supporters: Dreaming from Tommy Hilfiger, EVE from Cardinal, Sony Overseas SA. Exclusive Partner Hairstyling: Paul Mitchell.
Exclusive Partner Make-up: Bourjois Paris. Mobility Provider: Audi. Showproduction and creative direction event: Yannick Aellen.
Eventdesign: pfeffermint – Visuelle Kommunikation. Coordination and technical management: Mario Corrodi. Patronage: Mayor's department mainly concerned with culture of the City of Zurich.
The Swiss Textile Federation