Textile recycling innovations signal shift towards sustainable fashion

The paramount challenge in recycling used fabrics and textiles lies in the intricate web of traceability and transparency—a complex puzzle that the industry has often struggled with, falling short of maintaining robust systems. While there have been strides in introducing sustainable fabrics and fibres from a producer's perspective, the core issue extends to the consumer's role in recycling and reusing these commodities.

On the producer side, the emergence of novel, eco-friendly materials demonstrates a commitment to sustainability. However, the success of these initiatives relies on a corresponding commitment from consumers. Recognising the need for a comprehensive approach, the fashion industry is witnessing innovative solutions in post-consumer recycling, such as the advent of mobile factories. This concept brings recycling capabilities directly to consumers.

Thus, the evolving landscape of post-consumer recycling highlights the necessity for collaboration between producers and consumers. As the industry transitions, integrating mobile factories and similar innovations signifies a promising step towards fostering a more sustainable and transparent approach to the entire lifecycle of textiles and apparel.

A closed loop

The popular G2G (garment to garment), developed by the Hong Kong Research Institute of Textiles and Apparels (HKRITA), is revolutionising the industry with its mobile used clothes recycling factory. This compact 40-foot container factory, situated in Hong Kong, has been accessible to the public since September 2021. While it doesn't handle mass recycling of clothes, its uniqueness lies in its educational role, informing consumers about the recycling process of used apparel. This initiative exemplifies transparency and traceability, often challenging for companies to achieve. HKRITA is involved in multiple projects aiming for sustainability across value chains. The company has progressed towards using less water by adopting a dyeing process that utilises supercritical carbon dioxide—a method claimed by many companies. However, G2G uniquely allows customers to witness the entire process, enhancing understanding and engagement.

Transformation with 'terms and conditions applied'

HKRITA's process, aimed at the general public, simplifies the recycling of clothes into new garments, explained through clear graphical illustrations. However, traceability remains a challenge, and the recycling is subject to specific terms and conditions. Materials such as Lycra, Spandex, leather, and specially coated fabrics are excluded. A significant limitation is the process's capacity to only recycle T-shirts and sweaters. To strengthen the recycled fabric, it is blended with virgin cotton and lyocell.

But how sustainable is it? Determining the source of the raw materials is still a challenge. The presence of spandex in many garments limits the recycling process to specific types of clothing. Additionally, the lack of such facilities in many countries could increase the trade of used clothes to regions where these facilities exist. This situation could lead to two significant issues: a monopoly in the recycled clothing market and an escalation in the waste from clothes that are unsuitable for recycling.

The puzzle of accountability

To enhance the recycled fibre's strength, the company incorporates virgin cotton fibre. However, a crucial question arises: Is this virgin cotton organic, regenerative, or conventionally produced? Transparency is paramount in sustainability. The lack of information about the origins of cotton or lyocell leads to questions about the true sustainability of the newly created fabric. While the garment may indeed be a triumph in recycling, the lingering uncertainty surrounding its sustainability status remains a pressing and complex question.

It is commendable to acknowledge the fact that the attempt is made towards initiating circularity in the garments from the consumer’s end which is another important step in encouraging sustainability in the supply chains. The current technique is minutely detailed, but the transparency regarding the sources remains obscure.

Questions never asked

The process is enthralling and curious to the human eye, yet the question remains: what happens to garments unsuitable for recycling? While there are multiple alternatives for recycling rejected garments, the issue of where to send them for downcycling remains under examination.

The energy usage for the recycling of the garments is not mentioned by the company. Although it doesn’t use water for the cleaning and the recycling of the garments, the amount of electricity used for the process is not mentioned. Sustainability requires optimal usage of energy. Today the source of energy is coal, which is not sustainable, so in a way is it increasing carbon emissions indirectly is a question.

Sustainability demands optimal energy usage. Currently, coal is the primary energy source, which is not sustainable. This raises the question: does this indirectly increase carbon emissions?

The lifecycle of newly recycled clothing is a significant concern. The strength of the fibre diminishes during mechanical recycling. G2G authorities claim the lifespan of recycled garments equals that of new ones, yet affordability poses a substantial barrier. In Hong Kong, recycling old clothes costs $64, a cost unaffordable for developing and under-developed countries. Consequently, there is a higher likelihood that used clothes will end up in landfills, as many countries cannot afford this technology.

The road ahead

Innovations in the textile sector will continue until a more promising and permanent solution is found to ensure a circular economy. However, before making the textile industry more circular, a global regulatory policy is needed to monitor the entire value chain's transparency. This task appears challenging due to the involvement of stakeholders with varying bargaining powers. Merely green tagging and exporting used clothes to Less Developed Countries (LDCs) at the expense of their economies is not a true solution for companies to become green. Ultimately, accountability, transparency, and traceability are still lacking in the garment recycling chain. Increased scrutiny and tighter regulations are necessary to ensure that all three main aspects of sustainable production are met.

ALCHEMPro News Desk (MI WE)