Green, fashionable & innovative: New mantra for textile start-ups

As global emissions continue to rise, the spectre of climate change looms large, bringing with it a host of potential disasters. In response to this imminent threat, nations worldwide have united under the Paris Agreement, committing to ambitious targets to mitigate climate change effects by 2030. Recognising the significant environmental impact of the textile industry, concerted efforts are being made by various companies to reduce emissions and adopt sustainable practices.

Recycling, traceability, circularity, and transparency emerge as the four key pillars guiding sustainable and responsible production within the textile industry. One innovative approach gaining traction in recycling and circularity is carbon recycling, particularly in the production of fibres such as polyester.

This groundbreaking initiative involves repurposing carbon emissions and transforming them into valuable resources for the creation of textile fibres. By incorporating carbon recycling into the production process, companies aim to minimise the environmental footprint of their products and contribute to the overarching goal of achieving a more sustainable and eco-friendly industry.

Figure 1: CO₂ emissions worldwide (in billion tonnes)

Source: Our world in data

Global Usage and Emissions Landscape: Unveiling the Textile Industry's Footprint

The functioning of nearly all manufacturing processes worldwide relies on the use of oil, gas, and electricity. Unfortunately, this widespread dependence has resulted in the global emission of Greenhouse Gases (GHGs). The textile industry, a significant player in this scenario, utilises crude oil to manufacture key fibres essential for apparel production. Polyester, a widely used fibre in the textile industry, is particularly derived from crude oil.

Over time, industrial production has contributed significantly to the escalating emissions of GHGs. Projections indicate that by the year 2022, these emissions would have peaked at 37.15 billion tonnes, marking a 3.03 per cent increase compared to 2017. The continuous release of carbon into the atmosphere poses a growing threat to the planet's resources, impacting everyone in the long run.

However, the prospect of reversing this concerning trend lies in the potential innovations emerging from start-ups. What if these entrepreneurial ventures could introduce groundbreaking solutions to address the environmental challenges associated with industrial production and reduce the carbon footprint?  As the world grapples with the consequences of escalating emissions, the role of innovative start-ups becomes increasingly crucial in steering the earth towards a more sustainable and environmentally conscious future.

Unravelling Carbon Emissions in the Textile Industry

The textile industry stands as the second-largest global polluter, currently accounting for 10 per cent of GHG emissions. Alarmingly, projections indicate that the industry is on track to experience a staggering 50 per cent increase in total emissions. In the era of fast fashion, where awareness about the responsible use of textile and apparel (T&A) products is gradually rising, the industry also bears the responsibility for 20 per cent of global wastewater.

Now, examining Figure 1, if the T&A industry decides to reduce carbon emissions by 8 per cent each year, the resulting graph is shown in Figure 2.

Figure 2: Emissions from the textile industry (in billion tonnes)

            Source: Our world in data and F2F analysis           

Even when considering the International Labor Organization's estimate of an 8 per cent reduction, emissions are still projected to have increased each year, reaching nearly 3 billion tonnes by 2022. This underscores the critical importance for the textile industry to prioritise and implement measures aimed at long-term emission reduction. Given the industry's significant role in both pollution and resource depletion, it becomes imperative for it to adopt sustainable methods aligned with the four main pillars of sustainability.

Textiles Transformed with Best-from-Waste Innovations

As the textile industry strives for a greener and more sustainable future, start-ups within the industry are taking proactive steps to advance environmental objectives. They are harnessing carbon emissions to produce fibres, aligning with one of the key pillars of sustainability—circularity. This involves the conversion of waste carbon into yarn and fabrics, a practice gaining traction among athletic brands and other eco-friendly manufacturers. By repurposing waste effluents like carbon, these companies contribute to the creation of textile products that can be sent for upcycling.

Implementing such methods in the textile industry holds the promise of a reduced carbon footprint, addressing a major point of criticism for the sector. The carbon recycling approach initially applied in industries like airlines and perfumes, has now found application in textile production. Many companies are embracing similar technologies, marking a significant shift in the industry's approach to sustainability.

This transformative process, initiated in 2021, focuses on producing polyester of comparable quality and feel to virgin polyester. With the increasing emphasis on meeting sustainability criteria in the industry, various innovations are emerging in man-made fibres such as viscose and other synthetic fibres like polyester.

Currently undergoing a pilot phase in Taiwan, this project sparks anticipation. If successful, it could potentially revolutionise not only industrial pollution but also textile pollution, significantly reducing pollution levels to unprecedented lows.

The Path to Resolving the Economics of Pollution

The successful introduction of methods like gas fermentation to produce yarns and fabrics has the potential to render the entire notion of "polluter pays" obsolete. However, key considerations in this paradigm shift include determining the cost of collection, assessing how the newly produced polyester compares in cost to other fibres and virgin polyester, and factoring in the expenses associated with capturing gas from industrial effluents within the supply chain.

This comprehensive process can establish an entirely new value chain. Consequently, it becomes crucial for major textile-producing countries to actively encourage and support the implementation of such innovative processes. By fostering the adoption of these technologies, countries can not only contribute to environmental sustainability but also promote the development of a more eco-friendly and economically viable textile industry.

ALCHEMPro News Desk (KL)